Pakistani Restaurant in Arizona Cooks to Cut a Niche

Einstein had it right: Everything is relative. The theory applies not only to physics, but also to ethnic restaurants. For proof, gauge the possible reactions to dinner at Shahnawaz, one of only two Valley restaurants I know of that showcase the cuisine of Pakistan. (The other, the Copper Kettle, mostly focuses on regional dishes from Baltistan, on Pakistan's far northeastern frontier.) With the exception of one dish, nehari, I have not seen any of Shahnawaz's Pakistani specialties elsewhere in town.

If you're a homesick Pakistani expatriate, Shahnawaz will likely bring back happy mealtime memories. If you're a steak-and-potatoes American who thinks chow mein and veal parmigiana are cutting-edge ethnic fare, Shahnawaz will probably send you fleeing into the night. And if, like me, you're a curious, risk-taking ethnic-foodie, Shahnawaz may trigger another reaction: the I'm-glad-I-tried-it-but-three-visits-satisfied-my-curiosity response…